Why doesn’t Sabyasachi’s New York comeback look Indian enough?
Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee returned to New York Fashion Week with a collection titled 'Bengal Byzantine Broadway'. The collection marks a shift in his brand identity, blending Indian heritage with Western silhouettes to move beyond traditional bridalwear.
Why it matters
The evolution of high-end Indian fashion brands reflects the global integration of cultural aesthetics and the changing strategies of luxury designers.
Twenty years ago, Sabyasachi Mukherjee went to New York with a collection called ‘Snail’, a move perversely quiet for a designer known for bohemia and handcraft: school uniforms, maternity wear, clean shapes, cotton and restrained embroidery, arguing for slowing down in an age of mass production. New York Fashion Week, he thought, would be the start of something; instead, it became a lesson in timing. His own account is blunt: too ambitious, too little power. He promised himself he’d return when the time was right.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee at New York Fashion Week | Photo Credit: Dan Lecca
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