The Chinese-Indonesian chef transforming Mumbai’s bread scene with her heritage baking
Chef Shannen Alexandra is gaining recognition in Mumbai for her unique fusion of Chinese-Indonesian heritage and French baking techniques. Her signature bow-tie-shaped mantou buns are currently featured at the high-end restaurant The Table.
Why it matters
It highlights the growing trend of culinary cross-pollination in global food scenes and the impact of immigrant chefs on local gastronomy.
In a converted warehouse in the light-industrial area of Byculla on the eastern seaboard of Mumbai, India, chef Shannen Alexandra pulls a tray of mantou, or milk buns, from a rack of baked goods. Her ponytail bobs as she excitedly explains how she tweaks the classic Chinese recipe to create her buns, which, rather than the typical round shape, resemble bow ties.
Her mantou differ in other ways, too. The classic version is usually made from simple milk bread, which is then steamed or fried; Alexandra uses a richer brioche recipe as well as poolish – a pre-ferment that rests overnight – in the dough to give it a softer texture and a gentle sweetness.
The bow-tie-shaped mantou are steamed in the bakery before being delivered to Mumbai hotspot The Table, where they are fried tableside and accompany a shovel-nosed lobster in a dish called Lobster Fra Rothschild.
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