Restaurant review: Dylan McGrath’s latest offering delivers an expertly executed pizza party

Dublin now exists in a state of pizza superabundance. Look around – the city is rife with slice-joints and lousy with pies of almost every persuasion. If you stand still or even slow to a saunter within the precincts between Dame and Stephen Streets, it will likely just occur to you unbidden. You might dodge the Detroit-style squares at Dame Lane’s Doom Slice only to run into Mani’s airy Roman rectangles. There’s a perma-line of tourists outside Bambino waiting for a New York slice.

Beyond the city limits the middle-class suburbs too are being steadily colonised. Rathmines lords Reggie’s over the rest, Ranelagh has both Rita’s and a Sano. Clontarf now has BoCo’s wood-fired specimens to sate its pizza needs. So what’s the deal?