Inside Elder, Chef Sujan Sarkar’s new British-Indian chophouse in New York

There are three places inside Chef Sujan Sarkar’s new British Indian chophouse, Elder, in New York . There is India, where he grew up and learnt the instincts of a cook before he had the language to describe them. There is London, where he spent years working in professional kitchens and absorbed the rhythms of British cooking, including the old chophouses where chops, fish, puddings and vegetables have always had as much right to the table as a handsome piece of meat. And then there is America, where Sujan has spent the last nine years cooking, opening restaurants and watching Indian food move, slowly and sometimes awkwardly, from the category of the unfamiliar into something Americans are increasingly willing to claim as their own.

Elder, New York | Photo Credit: Neil John Burger